Vallam kali — literally “boat play” — is Alappuzha’s signature spectacle: chundan vallams, the long, low snake boats, some crewed by a hundred or more oarsmen, racing down the backwaters to the beat of vanchipattu boat songs and a roaring lakeside crowd. The boats belong to villages along the water, and the rivalry is fierce. If your trip can align with a race, it is one of the great sights in India.
The Nehru Trophy Boat Race
The most famous is the Nehru Trophy Boat Race on Punnamada Lake, just outside Alappuzha town, held annually — traditionally on the second Saturday of August. It dates to 1952, when Jawaharlal Nehru was so taken with a race held in his honour that he donated a trophy. Tens of thousands watch from the banks and ticketed pavilions along the finishing stretch.
The Champakulam Moolam race
Older still is the Champakulam Moolam Vallam Kali on the Pamba river at Champakulam, generally regarded as the oldest of the snake-boat races. It’s tied to a temple festival and falls on the Moolam asterism in the Malayalam month of Midhunam (usually June–July), opening the racing season.
The wider season
Between roughly June and September, several races run across the Alappuzha and Kottayam backwaters — the Payippad Jalotsavam near Haripad, the Pulinkunnu and other village races among them. Dates follow the Malayalam calendar and temple festivals, so they shift year to year; check the current schedule before you plan around one.
- For the Nehru Trophy, book a ticketed grandstand seat in advance — the free banks are packed and hot; carry water, a hat and sun cover.
- Race dates follow the Malayalam calendar and shift each year — confirm the exact date before booking travel.
- Accommodation in Alappuzha fills up around the Nehru Trophy weekend; book well ahead.
- Even outside race day, you can see moored snake boats in some backwater villages and boat sheds.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Nehru Trophy Boat Race?
It’s held annually on Punnamada Lake near Alappuzha, traditionally on the second Saturday of August. Confirm the exact date each year, as arrangements can vary.
What is the oldest snake-boat race in Kerala?
The Champakulam Moolam Vallam Kali on the Pamba at Champakulam is generally considered the oldest, tied to a temple festival on the Moolam asterism (usually June–July).
How can I watch a snake-boat race?
For the Nehru Trophy, buy a ticketed grandstand seat in advance and arrive early with sun protection. Several smaller village races run across the Alappuzha–Kottayam backwaters between June and September; dates follow the Malayalam calendar, so check the current schedule.