Kerala’s Saint Thomas Christians — by tradition tracing their faith to the apostle Thomas, who is said to have landed on the Malabar coast in AD 52 — have their heartland in and around Kottayam. The town’s old churches are among the most atmospheric places in the district, and together they tell a story of trade, migration and a very old, very Indian form of Christianity.
Cheriapally and Valiyapally
Two churches sit close together on the low ridges of old Kottayam. The Cheriapally — the “small church”, St Mary’s Orthodox, built in 1579 — is famous for its Portuguese-influenced facade and the vivid mural paintings that cover its interior walls and ceiling. Nearby, the Valiyapally — the “big church”, associated with the Knanaya community — guards two carved stone “Persian crosses” with Pahlavi inscriptions, believed to be among the oldest Christian relics in India, a link back to the church’s ancient ties with Persia.
A living tradition
These are not museums but working churches of a community that has been part of Kerala for many centuries, keeping Syriac liturgical traditions alongside a thoroughly local life of rubber estates, schools and the printing presses that made Kottayam “the city of letters”. A short walk between the two churches, ideally paired with the riverside Thazhathangadi heritage quarter, is one of the quieter, richer half-days in central Kerala.
- Cheriapally is known for its interior murals; dress modestly and check that services aren’t in progress before looking around.
- The Valiyapally’s Persian crosses are the highlight — ask locally, as access to see them can be limited.
- Pair the churches with Thazhathangadi’s old riverside quarter and its historic Juma Masjid for a fuller heritage walk.
- All are in or near Kottayam town, an easy auto ride from the railway station and bus stand.
Frequently asked questions
What is Cheriapally in Kottayam?
St Mary’s Orthodox Church, the “small church”, built in 1579 and famous for its Portuguese-influenced architecture and vivid interior murals.
What are the Persian crosses at Kottayam Valiyapally?
Two carved stone crosses with Pahlavi (Persian) inscriptions kept at the Knanaya Valiyapally, believed to be among the oldest Christian relics in India.
Who are Kerala’s Saint Thomas Christians?
An ancient Christian community that, by tradition, traces its faith to the apostle Thomas in the 1st century AD, with its heartland around Kottayam and long historic ties to the Persian church.