Kottayam — the “land of letters and latex”, home to Kerala’s printing tradition and its rubber country — is often treated only as a gateway to Kumarakom. Give it a full day and it repays you with temples, some of the oldest churches in India, a riverside heritage quarter and, to finish, a backwater sunset.
Morning — town and heritage
Start at the Thirunakkara Mahadeva Temple in the centre of town, then walk the short circuit of old churches — the mural-filled Cheriapally and the Knanaya Valiyapally with its Persian crosses. Head to the Thazhathangadi quarter on the Meenachil river, a conservation area of old wooden houses and one of Kerala’s oldest mosques, the Thazhathangadi Juma Masjid.
Afternoon and evening — the backwaters
After lunch, drive about 16 km west to Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake. Take a late-afternoon shikara canoe through the canals, visit the bird sanctuary shore, and settle in for sunset over the open lake — the best possible end to a Kottayam day. With an early start you could add Ettumanoor’s temple and murals to the morning, or Aruvikkuzhi waterfall on the way to Kumarakom.
- The town temples and churches are close together — an auto-rickshaw makes the morning circuit easy.
- Access to the Valiyapally’s Persian crosses can be limited; ask locally.
- Kumarakom is about 16 km west of Kottayam town; a sunset shikara is worth booking ahead in season.
- Kottayam is on the main railway line and has good road links, so it slots easily into a wider backwater route.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kottayam worth a day?
Yes — beyond being a gateway to Kumarakom, the town has the Thirunakkara temple, ancient Syrian churches, the Thazhathangadi heritage quarter and easy backwater access for the evening.
How far is Kumarakom from Kottayam town?
About 16 km west, roughly 30–40 minutes by road — ideal for a late-afternoon shikara and a lake sunset.
What is Thazhathangadi?
A conservation quarter of old wooden houses on the Meenachil river in Kottayam, home to the historic Thazhathangadi Juma Masjid, one of the oldest mosques in Kerala.