On the Kannur shore stands a squat laterite fort that has watched over four centuries of Malabar’s history. St. Angelo Fort — Kannur Fort — was built by the Portuguese in 1505, in the time of their first viceroy, Francisco de Almeida, to guard their foothold on the pepper coast. It changed hands as the great trading powers rose and fell, and its story runs straight into that of the Arakkal, the one Muslim royal house Kerala ever had.
Portuguese, Dutch, British
The Portuguese held the fort until the Dutch took it in 1663, strengthening it with bastions they named Hollandia, Zeelandia and Frieslandia. In 1772 the Dutch sold the fort to Ali Raja of Arakkal, the local Muslim ruler. The British seized it in 1790 and made it their principal military station in Malabar, a role it kept right up to Independence in 1947. Today it is a well-kept monument under the Archaeological Survey of India.
The Arakkal dynasty
The Arakkal were Kerala’s only Muslim royal family, ruling from Kannur and once holding sway over the Lakshadweep islands. Unusually, they followed matrilineal succession: the eldest member of the family, whether man or woman, took the throne — so the ruler might be an Ali Raja or, equally, a reigning queen, the Arakkal Beevi. Their old palace now houses the Arakkal Museum, which keeps their heirlooms, documents and story.
- St. Angelo Fort and the Arakkal Museum are both in Kannur town and easy to see together.
- The fort is free to wander and best in the late afternoon, with sea breezes and sunset over the water.
- The Arakkal Museum is a ticketed indoor collection — check current days and hours locally.
- Payyambalam beach and the Kannur lighthouse are close by to round out the day.
Frequently asked questions
Who built St. Angelo Fort in Kannur?
The Portuguese built it in 1505, in the time of their first viceroy Francisco de Almeida. It later passed to the Dutch (1663), was sold to Ali Raja of Arakkal (1772), and was taken by the British (1790), who used it as their main Malabar military base until 1947.
Who were the Arakkal dynasty?
The Arakkal were Kerala’s only Muslim royal house, ruling from Kannur and once holding the Lakshadweep islands. They followed matrilineal succession, so the eldest family member — man or woman — ruled, as an Ali Raja or a reigning queen, the Arakkal Beevi.
What is there to see at the Arakkal Museum?
Set in the old Arakkal palace in Kannur, the museum preserves the dynasty’s heirlooms, documents and history — a rare window onto Kerala’s only Muslim royal family.