Kottarakkara is a taluk town on the MC Road, 27 km east of Kollam, and it is a stop rather than a destination. It earns the stop twice over: once for Kottarakkara Sree Mahaganapathi Temple and its tank, and once for a claim it makes about the beginning of Kerala’s best-known art form.

The temple that is not named after its main deity

Everyone calls it the Ganapathi temple. The central deity is Shiva. The sub-shrine to his son is what draws the crowds and what gave the place its name and its fame — which is worth knowing before you arrive and start looking for Ganapathi in the sreekovil. The offering the temple is famous for is unniyappam, the small dark rice-and-jaggery cake fried in ghee, and it is made and sold here in quantity.

Practical
  • The temple keeps standard Kerala hours: early morning, a long midday closure of several hours, then an evening reopening. Do not plan a midday arrival.
  • Dress conservatively; men are usually expected to remove the shirt in the inner precinct, as at most Kerala Shiva temples.
  • The tank beside the temple is part of the site, not a separate stop.

The Kathakali claim, stated carefully

The Kottarakkara Thampuran — the ruler of the small principality of Ilayidathu Swaroopam, which had its seat here — is credited with composing Ramanattam, the cycle of plays on the Ramayana that is the immediate ancestor of Kathakali. The town memorialises him. What the town does not have is a performance venue, a scheduled show or an interpretation centre, so do not come expecting to watch Kathakali here. Read about it before you arrive, look at the memorial, and see the art itself in Kochi or Thrissur.

How long, and how to fit it in

An hour or two covers everything. Kottarakkara is best treated as a break on a longer drive — it sits on the MC Road between Kollam and Kottayam, and it is also the natural pause on the way east toward the Ghats. The town has a KSRTC bus station and its own railway station (KKZ), and ordinary small-town food.

Frequently asked questions

Which deity is the Kottarakkara temple dedicated to?

Shiva. The temple is universally known as the Mahaganapathi temple because of the Ganapathi sub-shrine, which is what most visitors come for, but the central deity is Shiva.

What is Kottarakkara famous for?

The Mahaganapathi temple and its unniyappam offering, and the Kottarakkara Thampuran who is credited with composing Ramanattam, the immediate ancestor of Kathakali.

Can you watch Kathakali at Kottarakkara?

Not on a scheduled basis. The town remembers the Thampuran but has no regular performance venue; for a reliable performance, look to Kochi or Thrissur.

How long should you spend in Kottarakkara?

An hour or two. It is a stop on the MC Road rather than a place to stay.