Madikeri Fort

A museum in a traditional Kodagu house given over to Field Marshal K M Cariappa's fellow Kodava soldier, General Thimmayya. Kodagu has sent an extraordinary number of officers into the Indian Army and this is where the district tells that story. Open mornings and again from mid-afternoon, with a small entry charge.

A multi-cuisine restaurant on Pension Lane behind the Town Hall, at the smarter end of eating out in Madikeri rather than a quick plate near the bus stand.

A restaurant near the Post Office trading on the district's own cooking — Kodagu food is distinct from the rest of Karnataka, with pandi curry and kadumbuttu rather than a standard south Indian menu.

A large resort and spa at Kedakal village outside Madikeri, at the top of the district's price range.

The Taj group's resort outside Madikeri, set in rainforest on the edge of the town — the most expensive room in Kodagu, along with the Marriott.

Resort. Somwarpet Road, Makkandur Village Post, Kodagu district, Madikeri, Karnataka 571201.

A restaurant close to the Omkareshwara temple, which puts it within a short walk of the fort and the middle of town — convenient if you are working through Madikeri's sights on foot.

A pure vegetarian restaurant near the police station in central Madikeri. Worth knowing in a district whose best-known dishes are pork and fish.

A restaurant opposite the fort with an air-conditioned family hall and a view out over the town — the fort side of Madikeri is the high ground.

A cafe by the private bus station serving Kerala food — parottas, pathiri, fish fry and biryani. Kodagu borders Kerala and the cooking crosses the line with the traffic.

A budget hotel on Kohinoor Road opposite the State Bank, named for its outlook towards the fort. The fort is the high ground in Madikeri and this is within walking distance of it, so you can do the fort, the Omkareshwara temple and the middle of town on foot.

A central budget hotel on Daswal Road behind Jedi Hospital, which advertises hot water round the clock — not a given in a hill town where mornings are cold most of the year.

A homestay near the Madikeri bus stand — a mid-range room in town rather than out on a plantation, which suits you if you have come by bus and are not driving.

A hotel up by Raja's Seat, about 2 km from the centre — the end of town people walk to for the sunset over the valley.

A coffee estate stay with a stream running through it, on the Madikeri-Siddapur road at Kadagadal. Rates were quoted per couple including breakfast, which is the usual Kodagu plantation arrangement.

A plantation property at the 3rd Mile on the Madikeri-Siddapur road, with a golf course and eco-tourism activities on the estate.

An 1880s planter's bungalow on a working coffee estate at Kedakal, north of Madikeri, with a pool. The colonial-era bungalow let out to guests is the characteristic Kodagu stay.

A homestay close to the middle of Madikeri, behind Cauvery Wedding Hall on Field Marshal Cariappa College Road. It takes bookings on its own site rather than through a booking platform.

A homestay outside Madikeri among coffee plantations, booking direct through its own website.

An ayurvedic hospital on Kohinoor Road behind the State Bank, offering treatments and massage. Useful to know about after a Kodagu trek, and a working clinic rather than a spa attached to a resort.

A vegetarian restaurant beside the KSRTC bus stand, in the cluster of eating houses travellers use around bus times.

A restaurant on Junior College Road, about a kilometre from the centre of Madikeri. That puts it outside the tight knot of eating houses around the two bus stands, which is the point of it for anyone staying at that end of town.

A vegetarian restaurant at Madikeri Junction, reported as reliable for a plain good meal rather than anything elaborate.

A restaurant near the police station with vegetarian options, in the same central block as several of the town's other eating houses.