Vijayaraghava Perumal Temple, Thiruputkuzhi

The largest and most conventional hotel in the town, on Gandhi Road about a kilometre south of the bus stand — 1.06 km by a routed walk. GRT's own page describes 30-odd rooms: three Standard at 160 sq ft and twenty-nine Deluxe at 161 sq ft, with a choice of queen or twin beds, plus a multi-cuisine restaurant, two banquet halls and an in-house gym, and the group lists the property as pet-friendly. Note that GRT markets it as a hotel near the Kamakshi temple; the temple is on the far side of the bus stand from here, so read that as the same town rather than the same street. We have not stayed. Everything above is from the hotel's own website rather than a review aggregator, and we publish no rates because the hotel prices its own rooms.

The Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation's own hotel in the town — the state-run option, of the kind TTDC keeps at most of the pilgrimage centres. It stands on Railway Road out to the north-east, 1.23 km from the bus stand by a routed walk, and the useful fact about it is what it is next to: 257 metres by footpath from Kanchipuram East station, the town's original railway station, which is why local directions still place it opposite the old station. Rooms are the usual TTDC pattern of plain twin-bed air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned units. ⚠ We could not read a current room count, tariff or facility list on TTDC's own booking portal and would rather say so than repeat an aggregator's figures. Book through ttdconline.com and confirm at the counter.

A small guest house on Kamakshi Amman Sannadhi Street, 622 metres north of the bus stand by a routed walk and about two hundred metres from the Kamakshi Amman temple — which is the street a great many pilgrims want to be on. OpenStreetMap carries a phone number (9092808882) and an Instagram page rather than a website, which is a fair description of the scale of the place. ⚠ We have found no independent page for it, no published tariff and no room count. Treat it as a walk-in-and-ask lodge by the temple rather than something to book ahead sight-unseen.

The Kanchipuram branch of A2B — Adyar Ananda Bhavan — the Chennai sweet-shop-and-tiffin chain, on Nellukara Street 341 metres from the bus stand, about four minutes on foot. It is what it is everywhere: a sweet and savoury counter at the front, a vegetarian tiffin and meals section behind, reliable, busy, priced like a chain. In a town where most of the eating is small independent messes that publish no hours at all, that predictability is the reason to know it is here. OpenStreetMap records the phone as +91 44 2723 3295.

A Saravana Bhavan 355 metres from the bus stand, tagged in OpenStreetMap as South Indian vegetarian. The name is the best known in the Tamil restaurant trade and is used both by the chain and by a number of unconnected local houses, so do not assume which you have walked into — the food either way is the standard tiffin and meals repertoire. Useful mainly because it is four minutes from where the buses put you down and open across the hours the temples are shut. ⚠ Hours and ownership unverified.

A restaurant 283 metres north-east of the bus stand, the closest thing on this page to a first stop off the bus. In Tamil Nadu a place calling itself a hotel on its street sign is an eating house, not a place to sleep, and this is one of them — a working local restaurant among the doctors' rooms and small hospitals on this stretch. ⚠ No website, and no published menu, hours or rates. It is here because it is a real eating house three minutes from the stand, not because we have eaten in it.

A pure-vegetarian restaurant 393 metres north-east of the bus stand. Pure veg matters here in practice rather than as a label: pilgrims working through the temple circuit generally want somewhere they can eat between darshans without asking questions about the kitchen. ⚠ Unverified hours and no website — an OpenStreetMap survey record rather than a recommendation we have tested.

An eating house 974 metres east-north-east of the bus stand, on the side of town that runs out towards Kanchipuram East station. Another of the town's plain restaurants — the sort that runs a tiffin service morning and evening and a set meal at midday. ⚠ No website, no published hours, and we have not eaten here. Recorded from an OpenStreetMap survey because a visitor staying at the TTDC hotel on this side will otherwise find nothing marked between there and the centre.

A mess 1.7 km north-west of the bus stand, out on the way towards Kailasanathar and the older western end of the city. A mess in Tamil Nadu is a plain working eating house that serves whatever has been cooked that day rather than a menu, usually as a set meal at midday, and it is the cheapest honest lunch in any Tamil town. OpenStreetMap tags this one as Indian. ⚠ Hours and rates unverified.

A tiffin shop about two kilometres west of the bus stand, in the residential streets on the Kailasanathar side. Tiffin is the South Indian short-meal repertoire — idli, dosai, pongal, vadai — served early morning and again in the evening, with the middle of the day usually dead. Shops like this are how the town actually eats, and there are far more of them than any map records. ⚠ No published hours; it opens early and shuts when the trade stops. Too far to walk to in the heat — one to notice if you are already out at that end.

A bakery 750 metres south of the bus stand, in the commercial streets rather than the temple ones. Worth knowing for a specific reason: the temples shut in the middle of the day, the heat is at its worst then, and a bakery is one of the few things in an Indian temple town that stays open through it and will sell you something to carry. ⚠ Unverified hours, no website.

One of the town's big silk names, and one of the few with a real published history. Its own site says the retail business began in 1974 under the company name Babu Sarees Private Limited, that four generations of the family have run it, and — the part that matters to a buyer — that it keeps its own handloom factory and its own weavers rather than only buying in. The range runs from light everyday silks through soft silks to bridal and nine-yard sarees. Its hoarding appears in two of the street photographs on this page. Phone 044-27222058. ⚠ We publish no coordinate for this shop: it is not in the OpenStreetMap survey and we would rather give you the published street address than a pin we guessed. We publish no prices either — ask at the counter, and look at the border join before you buy.

The showroom whose hoardings are on every junction in the middle of Kanchipuram — including two of the photographs on this page, where the address 87 Gandhi Road is painted across a road barrier. Its own site says the business was established in 1989 by K. Thulasi Sah and K. Nagoo Sah and is now run by K.T. Prakash Sah, K.N. Eshwar Sah, Ganesh Sah and K.E. Vigneshwar Sah, selling silk, soft silk and traditional sarees, with its own online store. ⚠ Note what its own advertising says: several of those hoardings read “avoid brokers”. Brokers work the bus stand and the station here and are paid a commission on what you spend, so walk into a counter yourself. ⚠ No coordinate published — the shop is not in the OpenStreetMap survey and we will not guess a pin.

A Kanchipuram silk saree shop on Nadu Street, 386 metres south of the bus stand — OpenStreetMap's own description of it is exactly that. This is the part of town most visitors misread: Ekambareswarar, Kailasanathar and Kamakshi Amman are all north or north-west of the bus stand, and the shops, the market and most of the silk are south of it. Varadharaja Perumal, out in Vishnu Kanchi, is the exception that goes the other way. Nadu Street is one of the silk streets, with several counters inside a couple of hundred metres of each other, which makes it the obvious place to compare two or three before deciding. Its own website gives the shop as 91 Gandhi Road, with a second counter on Nadu Street. ⚠ No published hours found.

A silk shop 569 metres south-west of the bus stand, in the commercial blocks below the centre. One of the many independent counters that are not the big advertised names — usually where the price is more negotiable and the pressure lower. ⚠ Unverified hours and no website. Whatever the shop, the test is the same: on a genuine saree the body and the contrasting border are interlocked thread by thread where they meet, not printed and not stitched.

A silk shop 820 metres south of the bus stand, on the same stretch as several others. Worth knowing because it is one of the counters you walk past rather than one of the ones advertised at you, and because comparing three shops in one afternoon is the only way to get a feel for what a given quality costs in this town. ⚠ No website, hours unverified.

A clothes shop on Pallikoodathan Street, 1.2 km south of the bus stand, and one of the very few businesses in the town whose opening hours anyone has recorded: OpenStreetMap has it as nine in the morning to nine at night, seven days, with the phone as +91 94433 51115. In a town where almost nothing publishes a timetable, that is genuinely useful. ⚠ Those hours are a surveyor's note rather than the shop's own statement, so treat them as a guide.

A supermarket 1.3 km south of the bus stand, in the commercial end of town. Worth a line because self-service groceries are thin on the ground here, and this is where you replace the water, the sunscreen and the snacks that a day of barefoot temple courtyards in delta heat actually consumes. Its own website gives the head office as 43 K.A. Kovil Street and says it delivers within Kanchipuram city. ⚠ Hours unverified.

A town park about two kilometres south-west of the bus stand, named for C. N. Annadurai — Arignar Anna, the Dravidian leader and first DMK chief minister of Tamil Nadu, after whom a great many public things in this state are named. It is a municipal park rather than a garden anyone travels for: trees, paths, benches, children in the evening. Its use to a visitor is shade and somewhere to sit, in a town that offers very little of either between temples. ⚠ Hours and any entry charge unverified, and at 24 minutes' walk it is a park to reach by auto rather than on foot in the middle of the day.

A neighbourhood park in Pallava Nagar, 3.7 km south-west of the bus stand. Local, small, and not a destination — it is on this page because it is a green space on the far side of town from the temples, and because a hub that lists only temples tells you nothing about where people here actually live. ⚠ Hours unverified. Take an auto; the walk is three quarters of an hour.

The town auditorium, 942 metres north-west of the bus stand — kalai arangam means arts hall. Municipal halls like this are where a Tamil town's public cultural life actually happens: music and dance programmes, school and college events, government functions, the occasional touring performance. Nothing is aimed at visitors and there is no published season, but the board outside is worth a look if you are passing, because what is on is the town's own. ⚠ No website or programme we could find.

One of the town's single-screen cinemas, 871 metres south-east of the bus stand. Kanchipuram still has several — Aruna, Babu and Indira among them — which is now unusual, and a Tamil single-screen on a first-day evening is a genuine spectacle whether or not you follow the film. Tickets are bought at the counter. ⚠ We have no published showtimes; the boards outside carry them.

The district library office, about 1.9 km south of the bus stand, with a Perarignar Anna full-time branch library beside it. Kanchipuram was described as a place of learning — a ghatikasthanam — long before it was described as a place of pilgrimage, and its public libraries are the ordinary modern end of that. Free to walk into, quiet, and cool in the middle of the day when the temples are shut. ⚠ Opening hours unverified.